Due
to the incredible demand from fellow Explorer owners to the settings I
use, here is a
listing
and explanation of the different adjustments. Remember, that these settings
work
best
for me in the particular situations I frequent - trashy parks - and although
they work
for
nearly every other situation, you may find that a change in one or more
of these
settings
will better suit the detector's performance for your hunting situation
or personal
preference.
1:
First of all, I hunt in the Smartfind Display... I find it infinitly more
useful to provide an
accurate
graphic representation of the target than Digital Mode.
2:
I hunt in the "Iron Mask" Function. This is nothing more than a simple
discrimination
pattern
that provides for a very basic change in accepting or rejecting a progressive
range
of ferrous and non ferrous targets. I keep mine set at -10 which, in theory,
accepts
all non-ferrous targets. In practice it knocks out about 90% of all ferrous
targets.
(Ferrous refers to targets bearing Iron or Iron-alloys) Some stainless
steel
objects
and bottle caps are accepted in this range, but they are not a nuisance
to me.
The
reason for accepting such a broad range of targets is to allow the detector
the
ability
to produce a steady sound on a deep target where the ID and tone may vary
from
the high coin range to the lower "junk" ranges. This is critical to allow
the detector
to
pick up that first "initial hit" on the first sweep of the coil, regardless
of wether it
actually
landed in the coin ID range or not. If you find certain areas of the accepted
portion
of the screen fall consistently in a particular nuisance junk target range,
you can
simply
duplicate the Iron Mask pattern in the "Discrimination" Function, then
use the
"Edit"
or "Learn" Display to "blacken out" or reject those nuisance targets. The
resulting
"Discrimination"
Pattern functions exactly as the "Iron Mask" Function under detecting
conditions.
I prefer to not do these extra edits, as I've trained my ears and brain
to
block
out the constant repeating "junk signals", and I often find it quite useful
to have
the
constant drone of junk signals as a background reference when I am keying
on the
higher
tones of desirable coin signals.
3:
Sensitivity... I prefer to hunt in Manual Sensitivity setting for 2 important
reasons. First,
when
the detector is set to Semi-auto Sensitivity, it often tends to "overcompensate"
for
many
ground conditions, often resulting in an actual sensitivity setting at
well below
what
I deem acceptable for getting the best depth and sensitivity performance.
The
detector
tries to shoot for an operating condition of a fairly steady threshold,
and in
many
ground conditions, this can only be achieved by sensitivity being set a
very low
value.
In these instances, it is better to sacrifice a steady threshold for a
little higher
sensitivity
value. Secondly, I prefer to have direct control over the sensitivity value
depending
on the depth of the targets I'm searching for. If I'm in an area with fairly
shallow
targets and deeper trash, such as an area of old soil over even older fill
dirt, I
don't
want the machine to be "too hot" and pick up real deep trash. I may also
want
to
have a better threshold present in trashy spots where it will affect the
recovery and
Smartfind
readings, giving me a better chance at separating and correctly ID'ing
the
good
signals amongst the surrounding trash.
4:
Threshold setting is simply a matter of personal preferance, but I stick
to the old rule
of
"barely audible".
MAIN
MENU SELECTIONS
Display:
Choice of settings here are simply which of the 4 Display Functions you
are
searching
in... automatically set by the dedicated "Search" button on the Control
Pad.
You should already be in Smartfind. The other setting is screen contrast,
which
I have at the highest value of 10 - this makes the screen and especially
the
bullseye
on the Smartfind function more visible... especially in high and low light
conditions.
Select:This
sub-menu is only for choosing Discrimination
patterns. Since I hunt in
"Iron
Mask",
I don't use this sub-menu at all.
Save:Same
goes for this one.
Audio:Volume:
Max Limit: This is set at 10 to allow the full volume potential of the
detector
to be utilized.
Gain:
This is essentially a volume booster for faint audio signals
from
deep/weak targets. Ideally, one would want this set
as
high as possible to hear the faintest signals loud and clear
but
I run this at 6 for one important reason... I need to hear
the
difference between the loud shallow "clad" coin hits and
the
deeper "old" coin hits. When I'm in many park areas
that
are full of shallow pennies, I can't waste the time to stop
and
visually check the depth reading of every single coin hit!
This
would take valuable time away from my looking for the
deep,
faint signal that holds much more promise for a good
target.
My hearing is still pretty good so, with a top line pair
of
headphones (Gray Ghost/TimberWolf/Thunder), I have no
problem
discerning faint audio signals from ambient noise.
Tone:Th.
Tone: This sets how high or how low your threshold pitch is. I have
this
in the middle at 5, but this is strictly my preference.
Variability:
This setting determines the maximum change in target tone
from
the lowest audio signal to the highest. Basically, the
higher
this value is set, the higher the tone for the high coin
readings
and the lower the tone for the lowest foil readings.
I
have this set at 8 so that the highest coin readings aren't
too
high, because certain junk targets like rotted iron, hot
rocks,
or large aluminum items sound off with a distinctive
"shriek"
of extremely high pitch. This allows for you to be
able
to not dig these telltale signals ( Be aware, coins in very
wet
soil - especially after a fresh rain, may produce this high
"shrieky"
pitch) With Variability at 10, it is too difficult to tell
the
highest coin readings from the high shriek of a hot rock
or
aforementioned junk item.
Limits:
This setting controls only how high the pitch is for the highest
audio
reading, and I keep this at 10.
Sounds:This
setting determines which way the "low to high" axis of tones is
represented
on the Smartfind Display. "Conduct" is the axis where the
lowest
tones are at the bottom of the screen and the highest tones are
at
the top of the screen. "Ferrous" is the axis where the lowest tones are
at
the left-hand side of the screen, and the highest tones are at the
right-hand
side of the screen. "Const" or Constant simply allows for no
Tone
variation in the target audio signal, regardless of where it hits on
the
Smartfind Display. This never applies to any of my hunting situations
as
I hunt by tone, and not merely the presence of an audible signal.
Conduct
and Ferrous each has it's advantages and disadvantages. I
hunt
almost always in Conduct - where the highest tones are at the top
of
the screen. This can be a dis-advantage for older, deeper coins that
tend
to read on the right edge of the screen, but lower down from the
top
edge and, consequently, lower in tone. Here you have to train your
ears
to listen for the "slightly-lower-than-coin" signal tones or you could
miss
out on a nice find whose tone is decresed because of being at an
extreme
depth. The Ferrous setting allows for the highest tones to come
from
targets that read on the right edge of the screen, and works best
when
you are searching for any REAL deep signal, where they tend to
ID
at the right edge of the screen. The main drawback is the tendency
for
certain iron targets to ID at the right edge of the screen as well as
good
targets. Bottle caps read off the right edge of the screen near the
bottom,
and can be very pesky as they sound the same as good "coin"
hits.
Rotted nails and other small iron also tends to hit here, some more
stubbornly
than others. If you are in an area lacking these nuisance
Iron
targets, the Ferrous setting, will best serve for hunting the real deep
coins,
otherwise, I stick to "Conduct".
Options:
Advanced: Should always be darkened.
Noise:
Displays the current value of the "Noise Cancel" function. The Noise Cancel
has
a dedicated button on the Control Pad. You can manually set this
value
here... especially when hunting in the presence of other detectors
or
non-constant interference sources. This essentially works as a
"frequency
shifter" feature that you find on other detectors, and can be
used
in competition hunts for fast adjustments to maintain stability when
around
other detectors. I haven't heard or proven that the value has any
affect
on detector depth, sensitivity, or operation so there is no "optimal"
setting
here, just where ever it is - it is.
Response:
I always hunt on "Normal". I have experimented with the other
settings
and although they (mainly audio1) have their advantages
in
extremely clean ground to maximize the audio responce of a
target,
I find them impractical in the context of most park hunting
where
target seperation and tone representation are adversly
affected.
Recover:
Fast: I have this turned on most times except when I'm in very clean
ground,
I'll turn it off. This has the effect of making a faint audio
signal
"wider" in the sweep of the coil - the detector sort of grabs
hold
of the signal and sounds it out longer than with Fast turned
on.
In trashier situations you need Fast on so that the detector
can
process a signal to an audio and visual responce on the meter
faster
and reset for the next signal to be processed - this is refered
to
as "target seperation".
Deep:I
always have this turned on! Never found a reason to have it off.
be
careful to turn this on when you first set up your machine as
this
is normally off in the preset mode.
Settings:
This is where you can store different detector operating values and parameters
and
change from one set back to the other depending on changes in your
hunting
situations. I never use this, as I prefer the long and tedious task of
making
individual changes to several values when I change hunting situations.
Hahaha
:)
Other
"Settings" and tricks to get the most out of your Explorer:
Coils:
There are several different coils available from Minelab and other "aftermarket"
companies.
At this time there are 5", 8", 12", 15", and elliptical coils available....
each
designed to improve the detector's performance and operation over the
"stock"
10 1/2" coil. I have tested these and I personally have no huge
preference
for one size over another or one brand over another. The 5" works best
in
the heaviest of trash, highest mineralization, or in the tightest quarters.
It gets
Impressive
depth, although understandably less than the larger coils, and can be
used
at higher sensitivity settings without loss of stability. The 8" coil is
an "inbetween"
size
for when you need improved target seperation in trashier areas, but maintain
as
much
depth capability as possible. The 12" coil is more an improvement in weight
of
the
detector than in significant performance improvement. It's lighter profile
provides
more
comfortable detecting while still maintaining full depth capability and
coverage.
The
15" coil is currently the largest coil available (there are larger coils
in the works as
of
this writing - so goes the rumour mill). It is the one to turn to for maximum
depth
and
ground coverage... especially for hunting beaches, or large open areas
like fields.
The
elliptical coil (5"X10" I believe) was developed as a hybrid... to provide
coverage
of
a larger coil, yet the target seperation of a smaller coil.
Target
Probes: THIS IS AN ABSOLUTE MUST !!! Using the Explorer is made FAR more
easier
when you have a good probe to assist in pinpointing and recovering
targets.
There are several handheld models available - all roughly equal in
performance...
each with about 1-2" sensitivity. The X-1 Probe from Sunray
is
a far superior pinpointer with twice the range and all the features of
any
coil
as it is simply a second coil with a switch box. In my opinion this is
the
first
accesory you need for your Explorer as it makes such a VAST
improvement
in efficiency of pinpointing and recovering targets. It is no
secret
that the Double-D design of the coils do not lend well to the best
pinpointing
job.... the X-1 probe greatly reduces the amount of digging
and
greatly ensures against accidental damaging of the target through
careless
or misguided digging.
Recovery
Equipment: I've seen everything from pocket knives and dandelion diggers
to
pack
shovels and specialized diggers and plug cutters used in
recovery.
Each has its merits.... the whole idea of recovery is to
remove
the target from the earth as quickly and efficiently as
possible
and with the least amount of damage to the ground as
one
can afford. In my hunting situation, I'm presented with many
factors
to consider in selecting the best recovery tool. I have to
hunt
in high profile areas where I am scrutinized by landowners
and
ignorant passerbys alike. I also am in areas where anything
short
of a bulldozer won't raise an eyebrow from anyone. I have
to
deal with rock hard clay surfaces and deep floodplain soils.
Roots
- large and small- rocks, cinders, manicured lawns, drained
lake
beds, beach sand.... the point is that there is an obvious
need
for different tools for the different sites. My main standby
is
a 14" long Bowie Knife... it is very durable, versatile, relatively
cheap
($15 at the local flea market), and an excellent deterrant
to
unwanted personal interaction in the urban scenes - if you get
my
drift ;). It can be used to probe out surface clad from the top
layer
of dirt, and cut DEEP plugs to reach far below. It can pry
large
rocks loose from hard ground without bending or breaking,
and
hack through tough roots. If I hunt a more "sensitive" area,
I
can turn to a less imposing tool like a Lesche Digger or a "Coin
Popper".
In the best of manicured lawns, out comes a probe made
from
a 10" flat bladed screwdriver with the end rounded off a bit.
In
the construction zone or lake bed, out comes my pack shovel...
the
army surplus kind that adjusts from straight treching shovel to
the
"chopping scoop" angled shovel.
Headphones:
The aforementioned line of GrayGhost/Timberwolf/Thunder phones are
the
best as far as comfort, drowning out exterior noise and sound quality.
These
require the purchase of the Sunray detector stand with the built in
headphone
jack adaptor. For hot summer hunting, a lighter phone is
recommended
so that your ears don't fill up with sweat. I don't have any
particular
brands to recommend, Inquire within the forums for the best
models
as there are some that will not work with the Explorer.
Final
Word: This is a good summary of how to prepare your Explorer for a productive
trip.
But remember, the machine is only as good as the person swinging it.
Old
bits of timeless advice apply... such as Research, Research, Research -
The
3 "P's" ( Practice, Patience, Persistance), and putting your coil over
the
target.
How well you go out prepared for success will dictate whether you
will
enjoy a rewarding relationship with your Explorer or a frustrating
Nightmare.
If you are easily discouraged, this is not the hobby for you!!!!
If
you are even mildly discourageable, consider searching for clad coins
or
something easy that doesn't require the work and dedication that
searching
hunted out parks for difficult to find coins does. Remember that
there
is a whole world of detectorists on the forums for you
to
gain Information, Experience, Confidence, and Inspiration from.... use
that
most important tool to it's fullest! Good Luck and Happy Hunting!
Mike Moutray - St. Louis, MO.
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